Day 6 Neko Harbour and Danko Island

Tuesday, January 14, 2014 Day 6
We had a very calm night in Paradise Bay followed by a 6:30am wake up call from Chad. The weather is unchanged from yesterday, a high cloud ceiling (you can just barely see the tops of the mountains surrounding us) and gently drizzling rain. Temperature is around 2C and the water +0.2C. The beauty in the snow and ice is indescribable. During breakfast, the ship moved onward to Andvord Bay. From here the mornings zodiacs will go ashore in Neko Harbour. Penguins are mandatory, hiking optional. Mom joined the zodiac group while I chose to photograph the glaciers from various locations on the ship. I am here with four camera options and have used them all. The panorama shots on the phone are great, the ipad takes great shots and movie clips, the little pocket camera for quick shots from the zodiac and the bigger camera for more serious vistas.
I am sitting in the quiet of the library, just steps from our room, sipping tea, enjoying the view and updating the journal.
The glaciers are calving around us and those at Neko Harbour were witness to the unforgettable sights and sounds of glacial ice breaking away and plunging into the sea. The guides were excited by this particular one, they described it sighting as once in a season. George from TWN caught it on video. We have seen or heard many others but not to that magnitude. Mom spent another morning at a Gentoo rookery as they bathed in the sea and returned to groom their clean feathers. At this spot, some eggs are not hatched yet. Two Weddell seals were also part of her experience.
Today's lunch: Hamburger & Hotdog Buffet, dessert was fried pineapple slice with pistachio ice cream.
This afternoons outing was to Danko Island....ocean beaches of rock, kelp, penguins and small bits of glacial ice sculptures. The snow is melting, dripping from above and making it's way to the sea. Hikers had another opportunity to go higher. Mom ventured on up to higher ground but I knew the beach was the place for me. Penguins are funny to watch as they waddle to the waters edge and then glide head first into the water. They porpoise so swiftly through the water, only to return to shore and begin their waddle back to the high rocky rookery.
The Zodiac cruise took us to see more blue ice marvels. Everywhere you look, there is beauty. The sun is trying its best to poke through...little bits of blue sky are quickly covered over once more.
We returned to the ship for a little r&r plus wine before dinner. Dinner tonight is a BBQ Buffet with baked apple dessert. It is the lady from Israel's birthday and Bartender Ian dressed in a penguin suite brought out a cake and candles, singing Happy Birthday.
Not sure what tomorrow will bring....more penguins? I couldn't believe my ears when I heard Mom say "you've seen one penguin, you've seen them all!"
We have had many many laughs along the way!
Day 6 is done.....good night.

Ships Russian crew painting the ship

Day 5 - Pleneau Island to Paradise Bay

Monday, January 13, 2014
Well, somehow I managed to delete today's entry so I will do my best to recreate it.

 

We are at the Argentine Islands, having sailed 720 miles. Our early morning (6:30) wakeup call came as we were about to sail back north through the Lemaire Channel. The ice is magnificent with deep crevices of blue. From the bridge, we observed many icebergs in the waters ahead as the ship navigates it's way through. We have cloud cover again today and some gentle rain. Our next stop is Pleneau Island. Beyond the Lemaire Channel, the winds pick up to 30 knots or approx 60 km until we pull into the bay at our morning destination.

The zodiacs were unloaded, filled with passengers and headed off to the shores of Pleneau Island. The air temperature is 1C. Mom took this excursion on her own while I stayed on ship, photographing our surroundings and then had coffee with some Australian gals. I also spent some time in the quietness of the library and visiting with a fellow Canadian, a senator from Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. We talked a little about things in the senate, he talked, I listened. I also raised my issue about polling stations and Elections Canada.

 

 This was Moms first on shore encounter with the penguins. These Gentoos did not disappoint her. The colony consisted of males, females and 1 week old chicks. There was a penguin on each of the nest with their backs to the wind and rain to protect their chicks from the elements. One penguin was struggling to keep her small chick under cover while the larger chick was settled right in. The mates were either coming or going, following their trails to the sea. Hopping along on the rocks, sliding along on the snow, gathering rocks for the nest and paying no attention to our presence. The petrels hovered overhead waiting for something to make a mistake. The sounds, the smells.....Being amongst them is truly Moms dream come true. Mom then hiked to the high point.....poles in hand and step by step until she conquered.

When she returned to the ship, her gear was soaked. Hair dryers have many uses, this being one.
Lunch: Pizza buffet, and I forget what dessert was but they are all good.
We crossed paths with the Polish fellows of yesterday who confirmed that the postcards were mailed from Vernadsky Station. It may take 2 1/2 - 3 months to arrive back home. They said they could have mailed them back home in Warsaw and they would arrive sooner. I asked how to say Thank you in Polish but I have already forgotten. Russian is spa si ba .

During lunch the ship moved us into Paradise Bay, one of the most scenic areas in Antarctica. The afternoon excursion was to Almirante Brown, an Argentine station that's only purpose is to be a presence in the Antarctic. Here is a colony of Gentoos and an opportunity to hike high up the mountain for those that have that desire. The only route down are the luge trails. We stayed at the midpoint, admiring the beautiful glacial ice and ice bergs. It is impossible to describe the beauty and majesty here. It is beyond visual. It is sensory....seeing, hearing, smelling, touching and sensing....sensory majesty!


frozen waterfall

Once we were ready to move on, Mark guided the zodiac around the corner to walls of nesting Antarctic Shags, similar to our cormorants. The geological stories revealed in the face of the rock are fascinating. Mosses and lichen growing on the north facing rock as it gets the most sun, one little clump of Antarctic grass, copper deposits and a frozen waterfall. As we continued around the bay, the most beautiful display of blue glacial ice and icebergs appeared. Indescribable, I hope my photos capture the beauty of natures creation.
Mark took us to the middle of the bay and we sat silent in the zodiac as the ice popped around us. He likened it to the popping that ice makes as you drop it in your gin and tonic. We are afloat in that G&T and the popping glacial ice......calmly intoxicating.
We are in Paradise, Paradise Bay and the ship has dropped anchor for the night.
Dinner: Mom, Stuffed Pepper, me the Salmon and the other choice was Rack of Lamb. Banana bread pudding for dessert. The meals have been delicious, the presentation always appealing and the portions very generous.
The Akademik Ioffe is a Russian ship and captain and crew are Russian. Their private quarters are on the second deck. The bridge and chart room are very interesting places to visit. They take the navigation of this ship very seriously. There is a head chef and crew to prepare and serve the meals, laundry service, room service in the morning and evening, vacuuming and cleaning every morning during the first expedition.
The two storm chaser photographers from The Weather Network, George and Mark are on board filming our adventure and once edited it will be aired on the Weather Channel.They were specifically filming our zodiac this afternoon. I am the only passenger on this ship in yellow pants....Ian called me the "rebel in the yellow pants", I am wearing my big girl pants!
Day 5 is done and it has been glorious.